Time before you walk out the door decides which of these styles is yours, because every set has to dry completely before the pins come out, and that usually means a few hours or overnight.
The ideas run from plain Pin Curls to a Victory Roll Updo, with Vintage Wave Curls, Pin-up Curls with Bangs, a Bow Headband look and a costume style in between, and Set Drying and Hold covers how to make any of them last.
1. Pin Curls
Heat-free curls start with damp, not wet, hair. Roll each small section around your finger, slide it off, and pin the coil flat against your head with a bobby pin or clip.
Let every section dry completely before you take the pins out. That usually means a few hours or overnight, so plan around it.
I prefer smaller sections for a bouncier set, though they take longer to roll. Brush out gently or just separate with your fingers.
Editor’s note: If you’re creating pin curls on short hair, you’ll likely need to use the one-finger curl method.
2. Sculpted Pin Curls
Gloss is what makes these curls look sculpted.
After the set is dry and the pins are out, skip the brush. Shape each curl around your finger and press it into place with a wide-tooth comb.
A few drops of shine serum, warmed between your palms, will smooth frizz without weighing the curls down.
Finish with a flexible hold spray. Large curls read best from behind, so check the back with a hand mirror before you call it done.
3. Vintage Wave Curls
Long hair gives waves room to look dramatic, but it also means more sections to set. Roll or curl in the usual way, let the hair cool or dry, then brush it out and shape the waves with a comb.
Pin the waves flat with clips for a few minutes so they hold their shape. Hairspray goes on last.
Polished vintage volume comes from brushing out evenly and smoothing the surface, so don’t rush that step. Allow extra time for hair past your shoulders.
4. Pin-up Curls with Bangs
Bangs change the whole curl plan, because the front section needs its own treatment. You can curl them away from the face, or roll them into a small forehead curl and pin it flat until it sets.
Keep the bangs a shade softer than the surrounding curls so they don’t look stiff.
Curls with bangs also pair easily with a tailored jacket, which suits daytime wear. Practice the front section first, since it’s the part everyone sees.
5. Victory Roll Updo
A victory roll is a tube of hair rolled up and pinned at the front, and it rewards a little backcombing.
Tease lightly at the root of the front section for lift, then roll it around your fingers and pin both ends.
Crossing 2 bobby pins in an X holds better than a single pin. Curl all the loose hair first so it frames the roll.
Practice on a day with no plans, because the first attempt rarely sits evenly. A bow headband hides any pins.
6. Curls with a Bow Headband
Style the waves first, then add the headband. Putting a bow on before brushing out flattens the volume and can crease the set.
Place the band a couple of inches back from the hairline, and use a pin or two if it slips on smooth hair.
Dark brown waves give a bright bow room to stand out, so I’d choose a bold color over a neutral one. Hairspray on the band’s contact points helps it stay.
7. Retro Curls with a Costume
A themed outfit sets the rules for the hair, so settle the costume first and let the curls follow its era.
Nautical pieces ask for a tidy, polished set, and this reads best with the curls brushed out smooth and shaped by hand.
Finish with hairspray, since a dressed-up evening means hours of standing around and posing.
I’d keep the hair simple and let the outfit carry the color. Curl all the way around the head so the back holds up from every angle, including next to a car.
Set the hair the day before if the event is long; a rushed set is the first thing to droop.
Set Drying and Hold
Damp curls droop. If you pull the pins while any coil is still slightly damp at the center, it won’t form properly and the set falls out quickly.
Plan the timing around your event. For a night out, pin your hair in the morning and let it dry through the day.
If you run short on time, a hairdryer can finish the job.
Keep the heat gentle and leave the pins in while you dry. Then let the hair cool completely before you take them out, because curls released while still warm relax faster.
A longer setting time gives you a stronger curl and better hold, so I give the set every spare hour I have.
